How to Add a Mosaic Logo to an Existing Floor (Inlay Guide)

How to Add a Mosaic Logo to an Existing Floor (Inlay Guide)

You don't need to replace your whole floor to add a mosaic. A logo or lettering panel can be inlaid into existing tile, wood or concrete, set flush so there is nothing to trip on. Here is how it works, using a real project as the example.

A real example: Oyster Manor

Restaurant entrance wood floor before the mosaicMosaic set flush into the wood floor after installation

Oyster Manor wanted its logo at the door without losing its wood floor. The installer cut out the entrance area, prepared a solid base and set the mosaic flush with the boards. Read the full story.

Step 1: Plan the size and position

Decide where the mosaic goes and how big it will be. Line it up with the door and with features such as walls or floor boards, so it looks intentional. Tell us the exact opening size and we'll make the mosaic to fit.

Step 2: Check the depth

This is the key to a flush finish. Measure the thickness of the existing floor covering. The mosaic tiles are about 5–6 mm thick, plus the adhesive bed, so your installer will work out how deep the base needs to be for the mosaic to finish level with the surrounding floor.

Send us the depth of your existing floor with your mockup request. We'll factor it in and can advise on the build-up.

Step 3: Mark and cut out

Existing floor cut out to make space for a mosaic inlay

The outline is marked and the existing flooring is removed inside it: tiles lifted, wood boards cut, or carpet and underlay taken up. Clean, straight edges make for a neat finish.

Step 4: Build a solid, level base

  • Tile floors: remove the old tiles and adhesive down to the sub-floor, then level as needed.
  • Wood floors: the installer adds a rigid backer (such as cement board) on a sound sub-floor, built up to the right height.
  • Concrete: the area may be ground down or leveled with a compound so the mosaic sits flush.

Step 5: Set the mosaic

Mosaic sheets being set into the cut-out area

The numbered mesh sheets are dry-laid to check the fit, then set into adhesive and grouted, exactly as in our installation guide.

Step 6: Finish the edges

Where the mosaic meets the old floor, a neat edge matters. Options include a tile border built into the mosaic, a metal edging strip, or a tight grout or sealant joint (especially next to wood, which moves slightly with humidity). Your installer will choose the right detail for your floor.

Laying it on top instead

If you'd rather not cut the floor, the mosaic can also be laid directly on top of the existing floor. It will sit slightly higher, so your installer should add trim strips (tapered edge profiles) around it to avoid a tripping hazard.

Can't cut into the floor?

If you rent, or the floor can't be cut, we can mount the mosaic on a board. It can sit in a recessed mat well or be set into a shallow frame, and it can be moved later.

Adding a mosaic to your floor?

Send us a photo of the floor, the size you'd like and your logo. We'll design it to fit, free, in 24–48 hours.

Get a free mockupSee prices

Frequently asked questions

Can a mosaic be added to an existing tile floor?

Yes. The old tiles are removed in the mosaic area and the mosaic is set in their place, flush with the surrounding tile.

Can a mosaic be inlaid into a wood floor?

Yes. The boards are cut out, a rigid base is built up to the right height, and the mosaic is set flush. A flexible joint at the edge allows for the wood's movement.

How thick is a mosaic?

Our tiles are about 5–6 mm thick, plus the adhesive bed. Tell us your floor depth and we'll advise.

Can a mosaic be laid on top of an existing floor?

Yes. It will sit slightly higher than the floor around it, so trim strips are added around the edges to avoid a tripping hazard.

Is there a removable option?

Yes. We can mount the mosaic on a board so it can be moved later.